Masking the canopy parts took a while. The frames is barely visible, which I guess is due to part of the frame sits on the inside. Anyway, this made it very hard to follow the frames with a blade when cutting the tape. Instead I had to work with thin stripes and put along the frame lines and then fill upp inside to mask all the small window pieces.
Next I will paint the frame colour and then lay a cote of primer. Mainly to see if there’s any visible seams that needs to be sorted.
I went to our annually book sale to buy a few books for my girlfriend. Found a few and was about to pay and leave when my eyes caught this box with a tarot deck, book and cloth. Somehow I was drawn to it, so I picked one box up and bought that too.
Inside the box it was a deck, a book and a blue cloth.
The cards looks very nice!
The deck is the old Visconti-Sforza deck which is supposed to be one of the oldest existing tarot decks. From the beginning they were hand painted, which only was something the very rich could afford. Members of the Visconti-Sforza family is represented in the beautiful pics on the cards.
The suits don’t have any symbolic pics as on some tarot decks, which makes it a bit harder to interpret them without knowing them by heart or having a book.
The cards are very large and high, which in my opinion makes them hard to shuffle, at least in Las Vegas style. So a bit hard to handle, but I do like them and will work with them, when I feel like using them. They were calling to in the shop for a reason! 🙂
I did a card draw for a facebook group I’m in and the cards seem to fit perfectly with the group. That’s cool! 🙂
Many builds that I’ve started lately seems to belong to group builds on different forums, and this one is no exception! The group build is called “Be a kid again” meaning build those kits that you once built when you where young or when you started the hobby.
As I recall, my first kit was the Lindberg Draken with spring loaded robot, that I built together with my dad. Or at least he and I started, and I finished it. That kit is a bit hard to come by now adays, so I opted to build Airfix old Draken kit, which I had lying in their “History of Swedish Air Force” boxing.
I decided to build it out of the box and I think the rules state that too. The greatest difference between now and then is my knowledge and that I’m gonna use an airbrush.
I could have re-scribed it, but opted out as it feels more old school that way.
After checking with a friend, I painted the pilot in a beige/khaki kind of colour, and then the seat and cockpit surroundings was painted in green and aluminium. Not much of a cockpit so the pilot is needed to fill the empty space! 🙂
After the pilot was done, I could start with assembly of the plane. It was pretty straight forward and went together pretty well for an old kit from the 70’s.
In the last minute I realized that I’ve forgotten to add weight to the nose, which caused a bit of a problem as I accidently pushed the pilot a bit. It took a while to set him straight again and still get the weights to stay. After that I glued the nose in place and also the wings.
Only a small amount of filler was needed to take care of the seams. I used a wet q-tip to remove the excess putty.
Pylons and some of the open position covers was added to the underside.
After checking with a friend, I could mask the canopy in the correct way for a F version,which have the rear portion covered.
I’ve also painted the wheels and landing gears.
Just recently I’ve painted pre-shade lines and after painting the robots white, I painted some white on different panels. Not sure if that’ll show, but it’s fun to try different things.
I checked my colours that I’ve bought for my 1/48 Hasegawa Draken, and the blue-gray that was goey back then, was even worse now. I’ll consider it useless. I don’t think I’m gonna buy that brand again. So next time I’ll order MRP (Mr Paint) instead. I’ve heard that they’re good.
I hope I can find matching colour in Humbrol or some other brand that I already have at home. If not, I have to order,which will cause a delay in the build.
This is a kit I’m building for a group build or SIG for MiG planes. I choose this as a kind of warm up. So far it has taken a bit longer than anticipated.
As can be seen in the instructions it is not many steps and the build was fairly quick. The fit was fairly good, except for the nose which had a slight step that needed some TLC. Also the intakes needed a bit of putty and sanding as well as the underside of the wing joints.
Someone else on the forum was building the same kit from another boxing, and he pointed out that there was a quite prominent detail missing. After checking pics on the net I tried to sculpt something that looked like whatever it is on top of the nose.
While painting white on some parts for another kit, I painted the missiles.
I’ve asked if a friend of mine can use his CAD skills to create a seat, and then hopefully another friend can do one on his printer.
I’ve heard many praise Hataka colours, but I guess that must be their laquer range they’re talking about. I know acrylic colours have a tedency to clogg up the nozzle after a while. For some reason I thought they were thinned and ready to go, but it clogged up almost instantly.
After cleaning up the airbrush, I diluted the colour and added a few drops of airbrush medium. That made brushing a lot easier and it lasted longer before it clogged the nozzle, calling for another clean up.
After my first go with the second colour, it looked like this.
A bit spotchy and uneven. So I mixed up a new batch and had one more go.
Still a bit uneven, but perhaps acceptable. I might lay another layer.
After a second cote of primer to check the seams, I could start to paint the underside in neutral grey.
This is the first time I use Hataka acrylic colours. I started with the paint directly from the bottle, but it clogged the nozzle pretty fast. After diluting it, it was a lot easier to paint. A good thing with the Hataka paints is that there is a ball that helps when shaking the bottle.
I will mask for the medium green colour and see how that turns out. I’ll try to get softly feathered edges.
The fit of the wings against the fuselage/wing root isn’t good as can be seen on this test fit.
Quite a gap on both sides. The underside is a bit better.
I glued the wings on the underside first and let that dry for a while. Then I tried to glue one side while pushing wing and body together. Closed the gap alright, but tilted the body and did the other side worse.
I cut some plastic sheet as shims to put into the gap on each side, and that way lessen the gap and make it easier to push the wings to the body. I decided to give it a try.
Still a gap, but not so wide. Maybe I can put in a bit more plastic, and then cut and sand to shape. The rest I will cover with putty later.